Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
